Where should the reed contacts be installed – at the bottom of the window or at the top?

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I would be interested in your opinion: The question is whether reed contacts at the top or bottom of the window. Current status of our considerations: install at the top. Why?

— Alarm system recognizes the window as open when tilted and is therefore safer for me.

— If no one is at home, all windows should be closed anyway (so not tilted) and this window position I would like to "recognize".

— Due to living room ventilation most windows stay closed also at night

— Should someone (e.g. our son) want to sleep with open windows despite WRL, I assume that this can be manually "excluded" from an alarm system and that it can still be armed during the night.

— I also assume that you can permanently (e.g. bedroom, children's room) until revoked "exclude" certain windows in the monitoring. So it should be indicated to me that the window is open, but nevertheless an arming is possible.

Addition: 2 contacts per window or a positioning of the magnet at the closing mechanism I do not want actually.

How did you solve this?



We have solved the problem in such a way that our alarm system can only be armed when all windows are closed. We could of course take out individuals, but that is not planned for the time being.

Sense of this possibility is nevertheless, if in the morning all are from the house that all windows are supervised.

With us also the garage is still secured. In addition, we have a 4-legged alarm system!


In our system (self-made) the contacts were fixed at the bottom. Thus it is possible to tilt the windows and still arm the system and also monitor this window. Furthermore, there is the possibility of each contact completely out of the monitoring so that you can, for example, windows in the room where you are completely open and yet the rest of the house can be secured by the system. I can't say if this is possible with commercial systems.


Or alternatively two reed contacts on the window. So you can distinguish between tilted and open. Another alternative would be an EnOcean window handle from e.g. Hoppe. This sends you also tilted and open based on the handle position. Unfortunately, the handle does not recognize whether a window was levered out. But for this the presence detectors should be in place. In addition, you can also detect if the patio door was possibly only ajar but I was closed by handle.

  •  As I said, I would like to choose the variant with a contact and find the optimal solution (for me) for this. - Since we have residential ventilation, it probably tends to be tilted less often in our house. - If I have the contact down, then I do not even recognize the tilted position. If it's up, it's at least indicated and I can decide for myself whether to arm it anyway or to go back into the room and close the window.
  • - If one takes the window now completely out of the monitoring, because tilted, then this is at most in recreation rooms during the night (e.g. bedrooms) and these are all on the upper floor, where I see security-technically not such a big issue (rather in rooms on the ground floor and where no people are).
  • And where do you see the point of taking any tilted windows out of the monitoring? You've noted yourself that this rarely occurs, so when it does, it's deliberate and brief. You would then only be monitoring the ventilation itself, but not the intentional intrusion
  • That's right. I just want flexibility. I probably won't take the window out all the time, but only on occasion. But I also have to say that I like programming, and I don't think it would be too difficult if the reed contact is activated or deactivated through the alarm system interface.

Always thought window monitoring is solved by a "ring", if it is interrupted the alarm triggers. So how do you take out individual windows?

  •   Apparently it would be possible, according to my electrician (whether it makes sense is another question). Relevant to me: our son wants to sleep with his windows tilted in the middle of the summer. So when I activate it, I see that his window is tilted, but I still arm it.
  • If you run an extra line from each contact to the control center and then install your own little electronics for each contact, you can use the switch to simulate that the door or window is closed even though it is open. Of course, this doesn't work with a ring line.
  • In addition, there were three different colored LEDs for each contact so that you can immediately see which door or window is open to the extent that the contact is responding, which contact has been removed from control and, in the case of an alarm, which contact reported the alarm. This optical information for the alarm is retained even after the alarm output time has elapsed and must be manually deleted. So you can already make sure that the individual parts are removed from the monitoring.
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