How do I fix cracks in the stucco facade of my house?

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A couple of years ago insulated the facade and did a Baumit stucco facade for the house.

House is on a 300mm slab, wall material – polystyrene-concrete blocks 300mm (wall thickness), insulation 50mm EPPS planted on the adhesive, mesh with adhesive on top, then wiped plaster Baumit Silicone Top 1,5K ST10, coloring with paint Silikat.

At this point, I identified a few jammy spots:

My understanding (I was very far removed from construction and everything related to it) is that the stucco is done first and then the roof trim with siding and the rest of the adjacent (to the facade) elements.

The craftsman installed the flashing for the shingles, hung the siding, and then put mesh and glue on top and wiped the stucco off!

As a result, these two areas have blown and cracked.

And the second problem is that when installing the flashing strips on the roof of the 1-story additions to the main house, they didn't have much of this strip, and they grouted the stucco right onto the shingles-naturally everything blew and fell off in that spot.

Please advise how to properly install now do not get a piece of the adjoining plate to the slab?

I was offered to attach to the wall and self-tapping to the facade! 

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Answers

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I suggest the following solution. To fix the defect we use two-component cement elastic waterproofing.

The sequence of work is as follows: 1. We apply ready-made waterproofing composition on the part of facade on the height of 5-10 cm, in the same way we apply it to the part of the roof, adjoining the facade.2. At the applied composition glue a sheet of shingles of the required size so that it overlaps the wall and the roof. Thus close the distance between the roof and the facade.3. After 4-6 hours on top of another layer of waterproofing composition, thereby reliably sealing possible places of leakage moisture. For decorative appearance and additional protection of freshly applied waterproofing can be sprinkled with quartz or colored sand, just as on the surface of the tiles it will stick and hold firmly. If desired, the sealing tape can be covered in the same way. This waterproofing compound adheres securely to both bitumen and metal.

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Top bar bent at 1.5 cm from the wall and filled with sealant. Red – filler. Green – polyurethane sealant. 

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  • Do you think it is better to bend the bar from the facade than to bend 2 cm to the facade and punch holes in the wall with a polyurethane sealant (poured into the hole)? Or is it better not to hole the facade with plaster?
  • Look carefully at the picture again. Everywhere in green is polyurethane sealant. The bend in the picture in the proportions is very large, in reality -1 cm. We glue on the polyurethane sealant. I use Sika.
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